Earthquake: 44 months later

I was walking in the CBD the other day, marveling at the fact that I call Christchurch "home". And as I looked around, walking from a favorite cafe to my car, I thought about how much the city has changed since we've lived here. It's less wrecked buildings and more gravel parking lots. It's less closed roads, and more new pavement. Less sad, more happy. Less boring, more cafes and bars. You get the idea.

But it's not all pretty yet. Far from it. In fact, I think a lot of things looked better 2 years ago than they do now- because construction is ugly! I decided to retrace my steps from January 2013, to show the progress that's happened in 21 months (or a total of 44 months later). I attempted to take all the following pictures standing in the exact same spot as I did back then. 

Then and Now

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(Looks worse, right? But note, missing buildings galore)

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(They moved the re:START mall a few blocks- it's really not worth getting excited about anymore. Cool while it lasted.)

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(Bridge of Remembrance. Construction is ugly.)

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(Probably won't be a watch shop...)

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Jan 2013

Oct 2014

The above before and after photos are of the Isaac Theatre Royal which is set to reopen in November. This is an example of one of the Christchurch architectural icons that has been preserved thanks to serious efforts and donations.

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Some other things, happily, haven't changed at all:

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But this old girl is much the same.

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Though there has been a lot of progress, there are still areas that seem utterly untouched since February 22, 2011.

Haven't Been Touched

Cranes: a staple in the sky

There are also still dozens of historical buildings around the city that haven't been repaired or torn down. Many hang in the balance, month in and month out, while people argue about money and progress and history. And money.

(Note the Canterbury "all right?" campaign posters- an effort to support mental health of earthquake sufferers.)

The New Christchurch

As fast as demolitions turn into gravel parking lots, new construction begins. Judging by the product thus far, it seems that 10 years from now Christchurch will be The Glass City. There's a lot of agitation about this, since Christchurch used to be so rich with (British) history. I, for one, think it's great. Earthquake safe. Progressive. And most importantly, usable. What good are all of the brick buildings held up by scaffolding labeled Too Hazardous To Enter...?

"The Terrace", coming soon. Riverside restaurants and bars. Outdoor music and festivals. Thank. God.

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The Current Christchurch

The best thing about this city, in addition to it's proximity to the ocean and mountains, is it's heart. I've mentioned this before, but I think it's really unique. People have come together to create beautiful art, creative spaces, and inspiring venues amidst the dust. 44 months later, this continues to flow.

CBD trams, back in action.

648 flags blowing optimism around cathedral square.

Traffic sheep replace road cones.

A Gap Filler called RAD: Recycle A Dunger

Fix your bike or help fix someone else's. Bring in your old vintage (or crappy) bike. It will get restored and sold cheap to someone who needs it. Or you can do it yourself!

Wooden palm trees liven up the corner where RAD sits.

A trendy new restaurant: The Brick Farm is the lone brick building standing amongst the rubble. Classic Christchurch. 

The Cardboard Cathedral: built from cardboard tubes (think paper towel roll), wood and glass. A controversial church built as a "transitional cathedral" which will stand for 50 years- hopefully long enough for the Christchurch Cathedral to get sorted out!

I always feel a sense of optimism when I walk around the CBD. It is loud and dusty, and frequently ugly, but hey, all that noise means they're hard at work. And yes, standing on some street corners still feels like being on the set of a post-apolcolyptic Tom Cruise movie. But living here, even visiting here, gives you a sense that you are part of a big change. Even if most of the world has no idea it's even happening!

This is Christchurch

I ran across this video today, and thought to myself, Yeah... that's exactly what it feels like. So for those of you who have emailed me, and the rest of you that are wondering: this is what Christchurch is like today, 2.5 years after the earthquake.

Obviously this video isnt highlighting the positive things about Christchurch (although the Pallet Pavilion and re:START Mall both get cameos). Other than a nice beach shot or two, it all kind of looks like a construction nightmare covered in dust and rainwater. But instead of focusing on the awesome like I usually do, I thought I'd give everyone a look at exactly what I see when I drive around the CBD every day.

Just click on the thumbnail above...
(It has come to my attention that you must be viewing on a real computer to see the link above. Sorry!)

A word to the wise: don't bother learning the landmarks as a way to navigate through town. Buildings both pop up and disappear daily!

Earthquake! (Part 3): A walk through the CBD

I know I already wrote a bit about the Canterbury earthquakes, and posted my photos of the aftermath. I think every expat that lands in this city has to come to terms with it. Which can take some time. While I prefer to call Christchurch quirky and up-coming, plenty of people call it depressing. There is one thing we can all agree on: there are a ridiculous amount of road cones and I sure wish I owned that company.

CBD is short for the Central Business District, aka: what was the thriving and bustling heart of downtown Christchurch. Picture large Victorian stone buildings, massive trees, a romantic lazy river... expensive shops for well to do travelers, street performers, bars bursting with rugby fans, and a street bazaar with worldly treasures. Don't forget to hop on the cute little trolly to get from one side of the CBD to the other, from the trolly you can get a quick glimpse at the numerous stone fountains and lazy park nappers. How there can be so many parks and statues inside one downtown I don't know. But it sure makes it pretty. Interesting little pedestrian alleyways lure you in with delicious coffee aromas and promises of sweet Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The baskets of flowers over your head are pouring out with petunias, and you wonder if you are in New Zealand? Or London? Or France?

I'm glad I got to experience it. Because that's all gone. A lot of Canterburians find themselves avoiding the CBD because it is too heart wrenching for them. And I actually found myself inadvertently avoiding it just because traffic doesn't run through and when we moved here, there wasn't much to see (besides totally munted buildings). So I went back the other day because I heard that New Regent Street, a small brick road with shops and restaurants and a cute facade, had reopened. I was pleased to find it opened and half full of business, with many more on the way. I was also pleasantly surprised by how much more of the CBD is "opened up"... at least the streets are walkable and drivable, and a lot of the Red Zoned buildings have come down. Immense progress in the 4 months since I've last really cruised around the CBD.

New Regent Street

Will have to check this out.

Looking down New Regent Street...

Hard to miss that building at the end.

So that's kind of what being in the CBD feels like. Have a $40 lunch of Manuka Salmon and Rocket Salad beneath the leaning tower of earthquake destruction. It's not for the faint of heart, but it is pretty fascinating.

Peering through the windows: An untouched interior of your favorite corporate coffee company

 

Don't worry kids, the window says Starbucks will be OK!

Next door to Starbucks, the inside of Just Jeans.

A little fence art?

Sure Christchurch, why wouldn't you put comically oversized astroturf furniture in the center of the rebuild?

As most of you know, we were in Christchurch 2 years ago, just days before the February earthquake. Had I known we would never see it like that again, I would have taken more pictures. I only have a couple... but here's my before and after shots. Kind of interesting...

Darling downtown CBD

Well, the wheat is still there...

Yep, we all know it's gone now. But here's my personal photo of it.

So there's a reality here that expats and visitors alike have to be aware of. However, there's also a very real revival happening. There's tons to do and tons to see, from Quake City for those of you that are morbidly interested in the earthquakes and damage, to Hagley Park, for those of you who prefer nature and ducks and flowers (like me)! Actually I wrote an article about all the things there are to do in Christchurch (for cheap!) so seriously, don't let the earthquake put you off. They've done a lot in the last 27 months... there's just so much to do.

In less dusty cone zoned times...